FŌS by Naia Reserve
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A guide · by FŌS

Athens, slowly.

A short, partial guide to the city we live in — what to walk to, where to eat, and how to spend three days without making yourself miserable.

12'To Acropolis
Apr–JunBest month
3Suggested days
A short opening

It is a city that rewards walking.

Athens is dense and stratified — three thousand years of building one on top of the other, all visible at once from any reasonable height. The good news is that almost everything is within a forty‑minute walk: the Acropolis to our south, the Old University to the north, Plaka and Monastiraki in between.

We've put together a short guide of places we send people to. None of it is exhaustive; all of it is true. Print it, fold it into your pocket, and ignore most of it on the second day.

i.
walk to
Monuments & museums

Eight things everyone tells you to do — and they're right.

The unmissable list. We've left out everything most guidebooks list because we don't think it's worth your hour. These are the ones we'd insist on.

01.

The Acropolis & Parthenon

Go at opening (08:00) or two hours before closing. The afternoon light is better but the crowds are not.

Open 08—19€20
12'walk
02.

Acropolis Museum

Bernard Tschumi's glass building over the ruins, ground floor still open. Eat at the second-floor restaurant if it's clear.

Closed Mon€15
14'walk
03.

Museum of Cycladic Art

A small, perfect museum. The marble figures from 3000 BC look modern; they made Brancusi possible.

Closed Tue€10
22'walk
04.

National Archaeological

Everything found in Greece is here. Go straight to the bronze of Poseidon and the Mycenaean gold. Stay an hour.

Closed Tue€12
18'walk
05.

Benaki Museum (Pireos)

The newer Benaki, an industrial cube ten minutes south. Contemporary shows, frequently overlooked.

Closed Mon, Tue€9
10'walk
06.

Filopappou Hill

The other Acropolis view, free, and quieter. Climb at sundown and bring something to drink.

Always openFree
18'walk
07.

Kerameikos

The old cemetery and the ancient city gate, two blocks from us. Almost no one goes; you'll have it to yourself.

Closed Tue€8
4'walk
08.

The Trilogy

The Academy, University and Library on Panepistimiou — neoclassical Athens at its most theatrical. Best at night.

Exterior onlyFree
25'walk
09.

Anafiotika

A village from Anafi that climbed onto the Acropolis. Whitewashed steps and bougainvillea — go in the morning.

Always openFree
18'walk
The Acropolis under a clear sky.
Our advice

If you only have one morning — go at eight, climb fast, sit at the top, leave by ten.

Pre-buy the combined ticket (€30) on the official portal — it covers the Acropolis plus six other sites for five days. Anna at the front desk will print it for you and order the eight o'clock taxi.

ii.
eat at
Tavernas, bistros, bars

Where we'd eat on a Thursday.

Nine places we like enough to send our friends to. We've left out the ones in every list. If you only want one, ask us — we'll book.

a.

Diporto

An underground taverna near Athens Central Market. Lunch only, four dishes, no menu. A hundred years old.

Mon–Sat lunch€
12'walk
b.

Nolan

Greek and Japanese, surprisingly well. Sit at the bar. The yuzu-cured fish and the karaage are the usuals.

Dinner€€
18'walk
c.

Klimataria

Pure old-Athens taverna in Plateia Theatrou. The wine comes by the kilo. Order the artichoke and the kokoretsi.

Lunch & dinner€€
15'walk
d.

Aleria

Modern Greek tasting in Metaxourgio, ten minutes north. Worth a full evening. Book a week ahead.

Dinner€€€
10'walk
e.

Hytra (rooftop)

One Michelin star with the Acropolis on your plate. The cheaper rooftop bar above the dining room is also good.

Dinner€€€€
25'taxi
f.

Ama Lachei

A neighbourhood meze house in Exarcheia. Outdoor tables under fairy lights, and the best fava in Athens.

Dinner€€
28'walk
g.

Linou Soumpasis

The wine list of Athens. Greek varieties only, mostly natural. Stay late, order a second board.

Wine bar€€
14'walk
h.

The Clumsies

Among the world's fifty best bars, and the Athenians don't pretend not to know it. Go for one drink, stay for four.

Bar · late€€
20'walk
i.

Krinos for loukoumades

Honey doughnuts since 1923. Eat them standing, with a small Greek coffee, around eleven in the morning.

Morning€
12'walk
A suggested itinerary

Three days, at the right pace.

The version of Athens we send to people on their first stay. Built for two travellers, walkable, with one early morning and two late afternoons.

01.
The classical day

The Acropolis, slowly.And one neighbourhood north of it.

  1. Breakfast on the second floor.
  2. Acropolis at opening — climb fast.
  3. Coffee in Anafiotika.
  4. Acropolis Museum, ground floor.
  5. Lunch at Diporto.
  6. Walk back via Plaka.
  7. Dinner at Klimataria.
02.
The modern day

Galleries, markets, dinner late.Today you walk five kilometres.

  1. Slow breakfast on the rooftop.
  2. Benaki Pireos — start here.
  3. Walk through Keramikos.
  4. Lunch at Linou Soumpasis.
  5. Cycladic Art.
  6. Apéritif on our rooftop.
  7. Dinner at Nolan.
03.
The slow day

A hill, a beach, a long lunch.Or stay on the rooftop. Either works.

  1. Breakfast, late.
  2. Filopappou Hill from the south.
  3. Drive (or train) to Faliro coast.
  4. Lunch by the water.
  5. Return for a swim & nap.
  6. The Clumsies, one drink.
  7. Dinner at Aleria.
iii.
day-trip
Out of town

And if you have a fourth day.

The Attic coast at sunset.

Cape Sounion at sundown.

The Temple of Poseidon at the southern tip of Attica — sixty kilometres of coast road, two hours each way, and the most photographed sunset in Greece. Anna can arrange a car for the afternoon.

From €140 / car 4–5 hours Best Apr–Oct
An island view.

Aegina or Hydra, by morning ferry.

Forty minutes to Aegina (pistachios, a quiet beach, a 5th-century temple), an hour and a half to Hydra (no cars, donkeys, painters). Leave Piraeus at 09:00, be back by 19:00.

€15–35 ferry Full day Year round
Practical

The boring, but useful, things.

From the airport
The metro line 3 takes 38 minutes to Monastiraki, then ten on foot. A taxi is €40 flat rate, 40 minutes off-peak. We'll book one for you.
When to come
April to early June is perfect. September and October are also excellent. July and August are hot — go up onto the rooftop, then go to the islands.
Cash & cards
Cards are accepted everywhere, including tavernas. Cash is useful for the laiki market, the small bakeries, and tips (round up, 10% if you loved it).
Getting around
Walk where you can. The metro is clean and quick (€1.20). Taxis are cheap; use the FreeNow app to avoid haggling. We have six bicycles to borrow.
Language
English is widely spoken in the centre. A simple kaliméra (good morning) and efcharistó (thank you) go a long way. Greeks appreciate the attempt.
Safety
Athens is safe at any hour in the central neighbourhoods, including ours. The usual: watch your phone in tourist crowds. Don't accept invitations from strangers on Syntagma at 2 a.m.
Come and see for yourself

A guide is a guide, a city is a city.

The best version of this guide is the one you'll make yourself. Come and find out which of our places you disagree with.

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